ephemeral feast (Page 6)

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Chermoula is a fragrant condiment from North Africa which is typically made of garlic, fresh herbs (parsley, cilantro, mint), lemon, and spices. It is traditionally served with fish, but it works really well when drizzled on vegetables or meat. Refried white beans with chermoula could not be easier to prepare and are packed with bright flavor.

The crisp white beans, enhanced with the vibrant herbs, punch of lemon, and hint of spice in the chermoula are a sensory thrill. Throw these refried white beans with chermoula together when you don’t know what to eat, and enjoy the burst of texture and aromas.

ingredients

for the beans

  • 1 can white beans (cannellini, great northern, navy), drained and rinsed
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 garlic clove, minced
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

for the chermoula

  • ½ teaspoon coriander seeds
  • ½ teaspoon cumin seeds
  • 2 garlic cloves
  • ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • ½ teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
  • 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
  • ½ teaspoon smoked paprika
  • ½ teaspoon kosher salt
  • ¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper
  • ½ cup parsley leaves and stems, packed
  • ½ cup cilantro leaves and stems, packed
  • ¼ cup mint leaves 

beans steps

Heat the olive oil in a large skillet (I use cast iron) over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and cook until just golden, about 2 minutes. Add the beans and lightly mash them using a potato masher or a fork. Let cook for another 5 minutes until the bottom layer of beans is golden. Flip the beans over in the skillet and cook for another 5 minutes on the other side. Feel free to cook longer for even more crisp!

chermoula steps

Place the coriander and cumin seeds in a saucepan and toast for 7-10 minutes until nutty and fragrant. Crush or add to a spice grinder. Add the toasted seeds, garlic cloves, olive oil, lemon zest, lemon juice, smoked paprika, kosher salt, and crushed red pepper to a food processor or blender. Blend for a few minutes until evenly combined. Add the parsley, cilantro, and mint and process until smooth. Drizzle chermoula over the beans and serve immediately!

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As we are rounding out the final stretch of winter, dreams of summer don’t seem so far off. Grilling is one of the great joys of warmer days, though this winter, we have been keeping the grill pan hot and busy. Grilling fruit is a wonderful way to accentuate its natural sweetness. With grilled pineapple, there is something magical that occurs when the hot grates of the grill come into contact with the smooth golden pineapple flesh. It becomes even more juicy, tender, and full of that distinctive sweet-tart pineapple flavor.

Grilled pineapple with ricotta, hazelnuts, and sage is incredibly simple to prepare and highly rewarding. The ricotta provides a cool, creamy contrast to the tangy pineapple, complemented by fragrant hazelnuts and earthy sage. Enjoy this grilled pineapple with ricotta, hazelnuts, and sage all year long!

ingredients

  • 1 pineapple
  • 16 ounces whole milk ricotta
  • ¼ cup hazelnuts, toasted and chopped
  • 1 tablespoons sage leaves, chopped

steps

Place the ricotta in a mesh sieve and strain over a bowl. Let sit while preparing the other ingredients. Heat a grill pan or grill on high heat. While it heats, prepare the pineapple: slice the top and bottom of the pineapple then slice the skin along the sides until the smooth golden flesh is revealed. Slice the pineapple into thirds lengthwise. Then slice them again to create spears.

Place 4 or 5 spears on the grill pan (or more on a regular grill) and cook for 3-4 minutes, flip, and then cook for another 3-4 minutes on the other side. Transfer grilled pineapple to a plate and continue to grill the remaining pieces until all have been cooked.

Meanwhile, use a stand mixer, hand mixer, food processor, blender (basically anything that is powerful enough to get the ricotta going) to whip the ricotta on high for 5-7 minutes. Spoon the whipped ricotta over the grilled pineapple and top with chopped hazelnuts and sage leaves. 

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Tuna steaks are a really versatile cut of fish. They are thick and generous yet light, virtuous, and satisfying. These lemon herb tuna steaks with balsamic vegetables are delectably herby and aromatic, accompanied by a lemony tang, and a hint of sweetness from the balsamic reduction. As the balsamic vinegar cooks and transforms into the reduction, the sugars emerge, leaving behind a sweet and syrupy glaze. The blistered peppers and onions then absorb all of this flavor.

I cook this dish on a grill pan, but you can use a real grill or a cast iron skillet if you don’t have a grill pan. Though I would highly recommend investing in one, as it is fairly inexpensive and can be used endlessly.  

Lemon herb tuna steaks with balsamic vegetables are simple and healthy. Give this dish a try to add some necessary color + brightness to your day during these final days of winter.

serves 4

ingredients

for the vegetables

  • 2 cups mini sweet bell peppers
  • 1 green bell pepper, sliced in 1-2 inch strips
  • 1 red onion, sliced into ½-inch rings
  • 1 cup balsamic vinegar, divided
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

for the tuna

  • 4 6-ounce tuna steaks
  • ¼ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
  • ½ cup parsley, chopped
  • ¼ cup thyme, chopped
  • 1 tablespoon basil, chopped
  • 1 garlic clove, minced
  • 1 teaspoon olive oil
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

steps

Marinate the peppers and onion in ½ cup of the balsamic vinegar, the olive oil, crushed red pepper, salt, and black pepper. Set aside.

Meanwhile, make the marinade for the tuna by combining the lemon juice, parsley, thyme, basil, garlic, olive oil, salt, and pepper. Coat both sides of the tuna with the marinade and let sit for 20-30 minutes. 

Place the remaining ½ cup of balsamic vinegar in a small pan over medium-low heat until it begins to thicken. This is known as a balsamic reduction, or balsamic drizzle, and it will dress the vegetables once they are cooked. I like to drain the marinade from the peppers, add it to the reduction, and continue reducing it so as not to waste anything!

Heat a grill pan or grill on high heat. Place the peppers and onions on the pan and grill for 6-7 minutes on the first side then turn them using tongs and cook for 6-7 minutes on the other side. Repeat until all of the vegetables have been cooked. 

Once all of the vegetables have been cooked, move the vegetables to a plate and drizzle the balsamic reduction over them. Place the tuna steaks on the grill and cook for 3 minutes on the first side then flip and cook for another 3 minutes. The tuna cooks fairly quickly, so pay attention so as not to overcook in (unless you prefer it that way).

Serve the tuna alongside the vegetables. Feel free to drizzle some of the balsamic reduction over the tuna as well!

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Chocolate and tahini and tahini caramel are two flavor duos that maximize the deliciously nutty flavor of tahini. When combined to create chocolate tahini caramel, the flavors accentuate tahini’s unique earthy, savory taste in a sweet bundle.

These chocolate tahini caramel buns are the result of constant experimentation with sourdough discard. I always hesitate to throw it away as I can’t bear wasting it! Chocolate and tahini caramel, like chocolate and peanut butter, or chocolate and caramel, are one of those wonderful culinary permutations. They blend so harmoniously in these chocolate tahini caramel buns, which are both sweet and savory, driven by the earthy, nutty tahini caramel and sesame seeds, dark chocolate, and fruity spice of aleppo pepper, all enveloped by flaky layers of chocolate dough. 

ingredients

for the dough

  • 2 cups all-purpose flour
  • ½ cup cocoa powder
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 2 teaspoons active dry yeast ** see note
  • ½ cup lukewarm water
  • 3 teaspoons sugar, divided
  • ¼ cup sourdough starter discard
  • ½ cup neutral oil
  • 2 eggs

for the caramel filling

  • ½ cup sugar
  • ¼ cup water
  • ¼ cup tahini
  • 2 tablespoons heavy cream
  • ¼ teaspoon salt
  • 1 teaspoon aleppo pepper
  • ½ cup chocolate chips
  • ½ cup sesame seeds

for the assembly

  • 4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter, melted
  • 1 tablespoon turbinado sugar
  • Powdered sugar for dusting

Note: This recipe uses ¼ of sourdough discard. If you do not have sourdough handy, use a full packet of active dry yeast.

dough steps

In a medium sized bowl, mix together the flour, cocoa powder, and salt, and set aside. Place the active dry yeast in a small bowl or measuring cup and add the lukewarm water and sugar. Give it a mix, and let it sit until it is bubbly, about 5 minutes. This is called “activation,” you know the yeast has been fully activated when it has bubbles on top. 

Once the active dry yeast is visibly activated, place it in the bowl of a stand mixer with the dough hook, or a large bowl if you intend to knead by hand. Add the sourdough starter discard and mix until combined. Then add the remaining 2 tablespoons of sugar, neutral oil, and eggs.

Slowly add in the flour/cocoa powder mixture, ½ cup at a time. Knead until the dough is shiny and slightly firm, about 5 minutes.

Grease the inside of a large bowl with oil and add the dough. Cover it with plastic wrap and let it sit for 2 hours until it has doubled in size.

caramel filling steps

About 1 hour into the dough’s rise, make the caramel filling so it has time to cool before assembling the buns.

Heat the sugar in a small pot on medium high. Do not mix the sugar yet, instead, swirl the pot continuously to redistribute the sugar as it begins to melt. Watch the sugar as it heats, it will happen quickly, about 4 minutes. Once the sugar begins to melt, add in the water then the tahini. At this point, you can safely mix the caramel. Let it continue cooking for 4-5 more minutes, it will become bubbly. Turn the heat to low and add in the cream, 1 tablespoon at a time. Mix until it is completely incorporated and bring it to a boil once more, and let it cook for about 4 more minutes. 

Remove it from the heat and mix in ¼ teaspoon salt and 1 teaspoon aleppo pepper. Let it cool for 40 minutes. 

assembly steps

Roll out the dough into a large rectangle and brush on the caramel sauce. Sprinkle the chocolate chips over the top, followed by the sesame seeds. Roll up the dough from the long side, turn it over on the seam, and cut it into 16 buns. Arrange cut-side up, evenly spaced apart in a rectangular baking dish. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise again for 1 hour. The buns will double in size. 

When you are ready to bake the buns, preheat the oven to 350°F. Brush the buns with melted butter and sprinkle with turbinado sugar. Bake for 35 minutes until they begin to flake and the caramel is bubbly. Let cool slightly and dust with powdered sugar.

The tahini caramel is flecked with fruity aleppo pepper

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In the winter, I often find myself cooking most vegetables, as I want my food to be warm and cozy and usually not cold and raw. Yet, sometimes I have the occasional need for a salad, full of delicious winter citrus and lots of crispy green vegetables. This endive butter lettuce celery and blood orange salad with toasted pine nuts is just that.

Endive salad is a perfect stand-in for classic mixed greens or romaine. Endive salad includes the perfect amount of fresh, crunchy greens to see you through these final winter months, accentuated by sweet blood orange and fragrant toasted pine nuts. Endive butter lettuce celery and blood orange salad with toasted pine nuts is a cheerful homage to waning winter days.

ingredients

  • 1 bunch butter lettuce, torn
  • 1 bunch endive, chopped into 1-inch size pieces
  • 2 stalks celery, sliced on the diagonal into 1-½-inch sized pieces
  • ¼ cup fresh parsley, chopped
  • 3 blood oranges, peeled, sliced and halved
  • ¼ cup olive oil
  • ½ cup white wine vinegar
  • 1 tablespoon salt
  • 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

steps

On a large plate or platter, evenly layer the butter lettuce, endive, and celery. Distribute pieces of the blood orange throughout and tuck them into the lettuce, endive, and celery. Sprinkle with the fresh parsley. Drizzle the olive oil over the top of the salad followed by the vinegar. Then sprinkle with the salt and pepper. You can make it up to 30 minutes before you plan to serve to allow the flavors to intermingle and marinate. 

Layer the ingredients to ensure every bite is evenly flavorful!

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White beans in parmesan broth are essentially a warm and cozy soup which you can throw together in the morning, let simmer for a few hours, and enjoy by late afternoon. Saving parmesan rinds for this purpose is a wonderful habit to get into, as the rinds will add a depth and creamy richness to your broth. Add in frozen spinach to pack in more greens to your meal. Enjoy these white beans in parmesan broth as a delicious vehicle for dipping bread or warming your soul as it awaits the vernal equinox (16 days!). 

ingredients

for the beans and soup

  • 1 pound (16 ounces) dried cannellini, great northern, or navy beans (soaked overnight)
  • 1 cup (8 ounces) parmesan rinds
  • 6 sprigs thyme
  • ½ cup parsley
  • 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper
  • 2 tablespoons kosher salt
  • 2 tablespoons freshly ground black pepper
  • 6 garlic cloves
  • 8-10 cups water

for the garnish

  • Parmesan cheese
  • Frozen spinach (optional)

steps

Place all of the ingredients in a large stock pot and add the water last. Bring the pot to a boil then lower the heat, cover the pot, and allow it to simmer for 2-3 hours. The longer it simmers, the more developed the flavor will be. After 2-3 hours, turn off the heat and allow the soup to sit for about 30 minutes. Strain out any pieces of parmesan rind and serve with a generous layer of grated parmesan cheese on top.

Add in frozen spinach to pack in more greens to your meal.
Add in frozen spinach to pack in more greens to your meal.

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I made these cookies one day when I had an abundance of shredded coconut on my hands. I decided to make them again and again, and when I shared them with my friends and family, the feedback was overwhelmingly positive. Thus, here are my oatmeal coconut cherry raisin cookies.

These cookies are packed with rich flavor from the oatmeal, butter, coconut, brown sugar, and almond extract. The cherries and raisins add a sweet-tart dimension and a nice texture. Baking soda, a full teaspoon of salt, and a touch of water make these oatmeal coconut cherry raisin cookies chewy yet crunchy, crispy at the edges, yet fluffy in the center. Oatmeal coconut cherry raisin cookies really are the total package.

makes about 18 3 ½-inch cookies

ingredients

  • 1 cup rolled oats
  • 1 cup all-purpose flour
  • 1 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1 cup (2 sticks) butter
  • ½ cup brown sugar
  • ½ cup granulated sugar
  • 1 teaspoon almond extract
  • 1 teaspoon water
  • 2 eggs
  • ½ cup shredded coconut
  • ½ cup dried cherries
  • ½ cup raisins

steps

In a large bowl, combine the oats, flour, baking soda, and salt. Set aside. Meanwhile, cream the butter, brown sugar, and granulated sugar until light and fluffy. Add in the almond extract and water and mix. Add the eggs in one at a time until both are evenly incorporated. Add in the shredded coconut until combined. Slowly add in the dry ingredients until the dough forms, being careful not to overwork the dough, then mix in the dried cherries and raisins.

Using a 2-inch scoop, spoon out the cookies onto a baking sheet lined with parchment paper or silpat, 2 inches apart. Bake for ~12 minutes until the edges are golden.

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Growing up, my grandma used to make us the most simple and delicious dish which she called “cheese noodles,” and which my sister called “cheese noo-noo.” They were literally that – wavy egg noodles with cottage cheese, served warm, occasionally with a pat of butter. Pljukanci is a Croatian noodle similar to the classic egg noodle of my youth; it certainly elicits that warm and cozy familiarity for me which cheese noodles evoke.

Pljukanci (prono: ple-oo-kantsi) is a hand-rolled Croatian pasta, made by rolling small pieces of dough between the palms of your hands or on a clean surface. The shape tapers at the ends and is thicker in the middle, giving it a nice chewy texture. Pljukanci can be served with a variety of sauces, but here, I re-create one of my childhood favorites – my grandma’s cheese noodles. 

ingredients

for the pljukanci dough

for assembly and serving

  • 1 tablespoon butter
  • 1 cup (8 ounces) of whole milk cottage cheese

steps

Place the flour in the bowl of a stand mixer with the dough hook, food processor, or a large bowl if you prefer to knead by hand. Make an indent in the center of the flour and add the egg, oil, water, and salt. Mix and knead the dough until it is evenly combined not too sticky, about 5-7 minutes.

Cover the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate the dough for an hour. Cut into pieces the size of almonds and roll each piece between your palms or on a clean surface. Taper the edges by rolling the ends out more and keeping the middle of the noodles thicker.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and cook the pljukanci for about 5 minutes. Remove from the water, strain, and add butter. 

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Tapenade, the french condiment which you might recognize from many a charcuterie board, is a lovely addition to any main course. It is packed with saltiness from the luscious combination of olives, capers, and anchovies and is rounded out by tangy lemon. Serve it on fish, chicken or vegetables to instantly elevate any meal or enjoy it on fresh bread or crackers. Here, I use flounder, but a similar white fish like halibut, sol, haddock, or catfish will work just fine. Flounder with green tapenade is quick and easy to prepare and accentuates all of those flavors.

Serve this dish on a bed of greens, with crusty bread, for a light, nourishing, and deeply satisfying weeknight meal. You can prepare flounder with green tapenade in a matter of minutes. 

ingredients

for the green tapenade

  • 4-5 fillets of anchovies
  • ½ cup green olives, pitted
  • ½ cup parsley
  • 1 tablespoon capers, chopped
  • ¼ cup olive oil
  • 1 tablespoon lemon juice
  • ½ tablespoon lemon zest
  • Pinch of salt
  • Freshly ground black pepper

for the flounder

  • 2 tablespoons butter
  • 2 tablespoons lemon juice
  • 1 teaspoon lemon zest
  • 1 tablespoon parsley
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

tapenade steps

Place all ingredients in a food processor and pulse 7-8 times for 2 seconds each until blended. You want to retain some texture and not totally puree the tapenade. Alternatively, you can finally chop each ingredient and mix it together by hand.

flounder and assembly steps

Melt the butter in a large pan and add the lemon juice, lemon zest, parsley, salt, and pepper. Place the flounder, skin-side down in the pan and cook for about 4 minutes. Flip and cook for another 4 minutes, spooning the sauce over the fish to evenly coat.

Serve the tapenade over the fish with a side of mixed raw or sautéed greens and crusty bread. 

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Tapenade is a the french condiment which you might recognize from many a charcuterie board. In addition to appetizers, tapenade is a lovely salty, briny, addition to any main course. It is typically made with a mix of olives and always includes capers. Here is a green tapenade version which emphasizes green olives. Green tapenade is packed with saltiness from the luscious combination of olives, capers, and anchovies and is rounded out by tangy lemon. Serve green tapenade as a snack or on fish, chicken or vegetables to instantly elevate any meal.

ingredients

  • 4-5 fillets of anchovies
  • ½ cup green olives, pitted
  • ½ cup parsley
  • 1 tablespoon capers, chopped
  • ¼ cup olive oil
  • 1 tablespoon lemon juice
  • ½ tablespoon lemon zest
  • Pinch of salt
  • Freshly ground black pepper

steps

Place all ingredients in a food processor and pulse 7-8 times for 2 seconds each until blended. You want to retain some texture and not totally puree the tapenade. Alternatively, you can finally chop each ingredient and mix it together by hand.